Process for the temporary reshaping of keratinous fibres

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a treatment process for obtaining a non-permanent reshaping of keratinous fibres, especially the setting of hair, comprising the steps of (i) contacting the fibres, which are maintained under mechanical tension and to which has been applied a composition containing at least one oil, with a gas containing water vapour, the gas having a temperature of at least 75° C., for a time not exceeding 2 minutes to non-permanently reshape the fibres, (ii) cooling the fibres thus contacted, and lastly (iii) removing the mechanical tension which was applied to the fibres, in order to obtain fibres having long-lasting, attractive curls and exceptional cosmetic properties of softness and smoothness.

The present invention relates to an improved process for the treatmentof keratinous fibres, preferably human keratinous fibres and especiallyhair, for the purpose of obtaining a non-permanent reshaping and/orrestoration of shape of the fibres, especially in the form of a setting.The process of the invention is usable in the field of professionalhairdressing, beauty and cosmetic salons, and the like. It relates stillmore specifically to a process employing water vapour and specialtreatment substances.

In hairdressing, the term "setting" is known to denote the simpleoperation which consists of giving the hair an non-permanent andtemporary set (generally wavy, such as ringlets, curls and the like)which vanishes instantaneously when the hair is wetted again, especiallywhen the latter is subjected to the action of washing with water or withshampoos. The "setting" process differs from a so-called permanentreshaping operation, during which genuine chemical treatments and/orconversions (reduction/oxidation) have to be carried out on thekeratinous fibres, the final shape imposed on the hair becoming nolonger sensitive (or remaining only very Slightly sensitive) to theabove-mentioned external agents.

The most common technique for carrying out setting (or non-permanentreshaping) of hair consists in first placing previously wetted or stillwet hair under tension (with traditional supports of the setting curleror roller type, and the like), in then drying the hair thus placed undertension under a salon hair dryer heating to a temperature ranging from30° C. to 60° C. for a time which can vary from 20 to 60 minutesdepending on the bulk of the hair to be dried, in thereafter removingthe means for placing under tension used above from the hair thus dried,and lastly in putting the finishing touches to the hair with a comb inorder to obtain the hairstyle with the desired final shape. Another,less common, process consists of using the old so-called curling tongsor styling tongs technique (lock of wet hair coiled around a metal coreand taken by the latter to more than 100° C. for at least 20 seconds);this latter technique is little used nowadays by professionalhairdressers, since it achieves results which are considered on thewhole to be unsatisfactory and uneven owing to the fact, in particular,that the hair is subjected to widely differing temperatures according towhether it is in actual contact with the heating core or, on thecontrary, some distance away from the latter.

In French Patent Application FR-A-2,273,492 and in U.S. Pat. No.4,166,473, the entire disclosures, including the drawings, of which arehereby incorporated by reference, it has already been proposed to makeuse of treatments with superheated steam with the aim, inter alia, ofimproving the quality and/or the efficiencies of a setting on hair.Although this technique does actually make it possible, compared to thetraditional processes, to improve certain features of the setimmediately, and especially the setting efficiency (or degree ofcurling), these improvements nevertheless remain of limited durability(or hold) over time, since they generally disappear within a few daysfollowing the treatment. Moreover, independently of the aspect ofretention of the degree of curling referred to above, it would naturallybe advantageous to be able to have the possibility of curly hairdisplaying an initial degree of curling (i.e. immediately after settingtreatment) which is still further improved compared to what is known atthe present time, with or without steam treatment. Lastly, the abovesteam process has another major drawback, namely that of finallyresulting in fibres which seem rough to the touch, which is undesirablefrom a cosmetic standpoint.

The aim of the present invention is, in particular, to solve the aboveproblems.

More specifically, the object of the present invention is to provide anew treatment process suitable for the non-permanent reshaping ofkeratinous fibres, preferably human keratinous fibres, and especiallyhair, which makes it possible to obtain curling of high quality.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process as abovewhich enables, in addition, this curling to be preserved on along-lasting basis (retention).

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a process as abovethat makes it possible to obtain keratinous fibres which are reshapednon-permanently while displaying exceptional cosmetic properties ofsoftness and smoothness.

Following a considerable amount of research, it has now been found bythe inventor, most unexpectedly and surprisingly, that these and otherobjects of the invention may be achieved by using water vapour undercertain special conditions on keratinous fibres, preferably humankeratinous fibres, and especially hair, previously treated with oils.This discovery underlies the present invention.

The present invention thus provides a new process suitable for thenon-permanent reshaping and/or restoration of shape of keratinousfibres, preferably human keratinous fibres, and especially hair. Thisprocess comprises the steps of (a) contacting said fibres, said fibresbeing maintained under mechanical tension (rollers, curlers or the like)and having had applied thereto a composition containing at least oneoil, with a gas containing water vapour, said gas having a temperatureof at least 75° C., for a time not exceeding 2 minutes tonon-permanently reshape said fibres, (b) cooling said fibres after saidcontacting step, and (c) removing the mechanical tension which wasapplied to said fibres.

Although the description which follows chiefly centres on the specialcase of the treatment of hair, it may be noted here that the processaccording to the invention is preferably applicable to any humankeratinous substance in general, in particular eyelashes, moustaches,and hairs generally, as well as to non-human keratinous fibres, forexample, the hair of show dogs.

The gas used in the process of the present invention preferably containsat least 1% by volume of water vapour.

In addition to water vapour, the carrier gas (or gaseous vehicle) cancontain solvent vapour, as well as gases such as oxygen or nitrogen,mixtures of gases such as air or alternatively other vapourizablecompounds.

As solvents which can advantageously be used for the production ofvapour (water/solvent mixtures), use may be made of cosmeticallyacceptable organic solvents such as, for example, alcohols such asethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycolsor glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol and itsmonomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol, butyleneglycol, dipropylene glycol and also alkyl ethers such as diethyleneglycol monobutyl ether.

According to the present invention, the gas preferably consists eitherexclusively or chiefly of water vapour, or of a mixture of water andair. The temperature of the gas is preferably above or equal to 85° C.,and more preferably ranges from 85° C. to 150° C., approximately. Thetemperature can also range from 75° C. to less than 100° C. The time ofcontact between the hot treatment gas and the fibre should be brief, andshould preferably not exceed 2 minutes. Preferably, the gas is broughtinto contact with the fibre for a time ranging from 0.01 second to 30seconds, more preferably from 1 to 20 seconds, and still more preferablyfrom 1 to 10 seconds. Naturally, the application of the gas may berepeated several times on the same fibre, each operation being carriedout on the basis of a time as stated above.

A preferred embodiment of the process according to the inventionconsists in first applying to the hair a composition consisting partlyor completely of oil, it being possible for this application to becarried out before, during or after the customary operation of placingthe locks of hair under tension in a shape corresponding to the finalshape desired for these latter, e.g., ringlets. This operation may becarried out by any suitable means known per se, in particular amechanical means, for maintaining hair under tension, such as, forexample, tubular bodies, rollers, curlers and the like. The locks thusimpregnated with oil are then subjected briefly to the action of watervapour according to the conditions mentioned above, and are then cooled,preferably rapidly, for example by passing a stream of air at roomtemperature over or through them and/or by drawing a stream of ambientair through the coiled locks. Finally, the mechanical means whichmaintained the locks under tension and in the desired shape throughoutthe whole treatment is removed from the hair, resulting in locks or ahead of hair displaying, for example, attractive, even and softringlets.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the hair is put undermechanical tension as described above and a composition consistingpartly or completely of oil is applied to the hair simultaneously with agas containing water vapour, as described above. The locks of hair thustreated are then cooled, preferably rapidly, by a method as set forthabove, and finally, the mechanical means which maintained the locksunder tension and in the desired shape throughout the whole treatment isremoved from the hair, resulting here also in locks or a head of hairdisplaying, for example, attractive, even and soft ringlets.

The production of a hot gas comprising water vapour can be done usingany apparatus known per se and designed for this purpose. However,according to the invention, it is preferable to use an apparatus such asthe one described in French Patent Application FR-A-2,273,492, and inU.S. Pat. No. 4,166,473, the disclosures of which were incorporated byreference above, or any other equivalent apparatus, which is, in effect,particularly suitable in the present case as it provides steady andhomogeneous selective treatment of the fibres without risk ofoverheating and with integrated post-treatment cooling.

According to the present invention, it is possible to use any oil knownper se. According to the commonly accepted meaning, oil is understoodhere to mean any fat which is liquid at room temperature and insolublein water and which has hydrophobic character, having a mineral, animal,vegetable or synthetic origin. Further, as defined herein, oil does notinclude silicone oil.

Among synthetic oils, there may be mentioned, in particular:

isoparaffins such as, for example, those corresponding to the formula:##STR1## where n ranges from 2 to 16. These isoparaffins may be usedalone or mixed with other isoparaffins of higher molecular weights,especially those of the formula above and for which n is greater than orequal to 18, and preferably ranges from 18 to 40. As examples ofisoparaffins which can be used in the context of the present invention,there may be mentioned the products sold under the name PERMETKYL 99 A(n=2), 101 A (n=3), 102 A (n=4), 104 A (n=16) and 106 A (n=38) by thecompany PRESPERSE Inc., or alternatively the products sold under thename ARLAMOL HD (n=3) by the company ICI,

esters such as ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetylor 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, dioctylmalate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanoate,

higher fatty acids and triglycerides of fatty acids such astriglycerides of octanoic and decanoic acids, cetyl ricinoleate, stearyloctanoate, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid,oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid,

fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol,

fluorinated oils such as perfluoro polyethers and the fluorohydrocarbonoils described, in particular, in Patent Application WO 93/11103, theentire disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference,

polyisobutylene oils.

Among mineral oils, hydrocarbon oils such as, for example, liquidparaffin (such as that sold under the name MARCOL 82 by the companyESSO), paraffin oils and isohexadecane may be mentioned in particular.Liquid paraffin and paraffin oils can be the same oils, but theirviscosities may be different.

Among animal oils, squalane and whale, seal, menhaden, halibut-liver,cod-liver, tuna, tallow, ox, horse, sheep, mink, turtle and otter oilsmay be mentioned in particular.

Lastly, among oils of vegetable origin, almond, groundnut, wheat-germ,linseed, apricot-kernel, nut, palm, pistachio, sesame, poppy-seed, pine,castor, soya-bean, avocado, safflower, coconut, hazelnut, olive,grape-pip, blackcurrent-pip, sunflower, rapeseed, cade, maize-germ,peach-kernel, coffee, jojoba, argan, evening-primrose, borage,cotton-seed, shea, shorea and macadamia oils and essential oils may bementioned as examples.

According to the present invention, it is possible either to use one oilalone or to employ several different oils.

Preferred oils according to the invention are mineral oils, especiallyliquid paraffin (paraffin oil), and synthetic oils, especiallyisoparaffins.

According to the present invention, the oils may be employed on theirown, but it is preferable to use compositions containing such oils in acosmetically acceptable vehicle. The oils can thus be either solubilizedor made into dispersions or (micro)emulsions in aqueous media or organicmedia or alternatively aqueous-organic media. As suitable organicsolvents, monohydric alcohols or polyols (ethanol, isopropanol,glycerol, benzyl alcohol, glycols), acetone, polyol ethers,hydrocarbons, esters, dimethoxymethane or alternatively volatilesilicones may be mentioned in particular.

The content of oil(s) in the compositions can vary within very widelimits, and can range, for example, from 0.01% to 50%, and preferablyfrom 0.1 to 10%, by weight relative to the whole of the composition.

The compositions can take any form customarily used in the field ofhair-care compositions for topical use, such as, for example, more orless thickened or gelled liquid, cream, mousse, lotion, gel, paste,emulsion, aerosol or any other suitable form.

The oil-based compositions can thus, and generally speaking, contain allthe various traditional additives which are used in the field of thepreparation of hair-care compositions for topical use, and can bechosen, for example, from UV screening agents, thickening agents,penetrating agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, opacifyingagents, buffers, surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants such asalkyl polyglycosides, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants andamphoteric surfactants, solubilizing agents, emollients, colorants,perfumes and preservatives.

The oil-based compositions used in the context of the present invention,which are hence intended for application to hair, preferably have a pHranging from 3 to 11. If necessary, this pH may be adjusted to thedesired value by adding, as appropriate, either standard alkalinizingagents or standard acidifying agents which are known to be cosmeticallyacceptable.

Specific, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the inventionwill now be given. EXAMPLE 1

An oil-based composition which had the following features (% by weight)was used:

    ______________________________________                                        Liquid paraffin marketed by ESSO                                                                       5%                                                   under the brand name MARCOL 82                                                (100% of AS; viscosity at 20° C.:                                      35 cSt approximately)                                                         Mixture of isoparaffinic hydro-                                                                        qs 100%                                              carbons sold under the name                                                   ISOPAR L by EXXON                                                             ______________________________________                                    

This composition was packaged in a pump bottle dispensing 0.15 ml dosesper spraying.

4 sprayings of the above composition were applied to a lock of naturalhair and the lock thus treated was then coiled on a curler 20 mm indiameter. The coiled lock was then treated for 5 seconds by means of ajet of gas essentially containing only water vapour and the temperatureof which was 85° C. The lock was then rapidly cooled by means of astream of ambient air and, lastly, was uncoiled from the curler.

To quantify the efficacy of the process according to the invention, theinitial length L₀ (in cm) of the lock of hair was first measured beforethe vapour treatment (length measured between the roots and the ends onthe vertically suspended lock); in the same way, the length L₁ of thissame lock was measured immediately after the treatment had ended; andlastly the length L₂ of this lock was measured 48 hours after thetreatment.

The setting or curling efficiency, p, (in %) is defined by the ratio##EQU1##

The curl retention, r, (in %) of the set is defined by the ratio##EQU2##

The higher the value of one and/or the other (and preferably of both atonce) of these two ratios, the better the set will be.

The results obtained were as follows:

L₀ =25 cm; L₁ =16 cm (p=36%); L₂ =19 cm (r=24%)

By way of comparison, the results obtained in the case of a vapourtreatment conducted on locks not previously treated with oil were asfollows:

L₀ =25 cm; L₁ =19 cm (p=24%); L₂ =24 cm (r=4%)

The above results show clearly the improvements brought about withrespect to efficiency and retention for the sets obtained by the processaccording to the present invention. Moreover, the locks of hairpretreated with an oil afforded exceptional softness and smoothness tothe touch.

EXAMPLE 2

An oil-based composition which had the following features (% by weight)was used:

    ______________________________________                                        Maize-germ oil        3%                                                      Perfume               0.1%                                                    Ethanol               qs 100%                                                 ______________________________________                                    

This composition was packaged in a pump bottle dispensing 0.15 ml dosesper spraying.

4 sprayings of the above composition were applied to a lock of naturalhair and the lock thus treated was then coiled on a curler 20 mm indiameter. The coiled lock was then treated for 5 seconds by means of ajet of gas essentially containing only water vapour and the temperatureof which was 85° C. The lock was then rapidly cooled by means of astream of ambient air and, lastly, was uncoiled from the curler.

The results were similar to those of Example 1. The locks of hairpretreated with an oil also afforded exceptional softness and smoothnessto the touch.

EXAMPLE 3

An oil-based composition which had the following features (% by weight)was used:

    ______________________________________                                        Perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether                                                                      0.3%                                               (FOMBLIN HC/25 of MONTEDISON)                                                 Perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether                                                                      100%                                               (GALDEN D 80 of MONTEDISON)                                                   ______________________________________                                    

This composition was packaged in a pump bottle dispensing 0.15 ml dosesper spraying.

4 sprayings of the above composition were applied to a lock of naturalhair and the lock thus treated was then coiled on a curler 20 mm indiameter. The coiled lock was then treated for 5 seconds by means of ajet of gas essentially containing only water vapour and the temperatureof which was 85° C. The lock was then rapidly cooled by means of astream of ambient air and, lastly, was uncoiled from the curler.

The results were similar to those of Example 1. Again, the locks of hairpretreated with an oil afforded exceptional softness and smoothness tothe touch.

What is claimed is:
 1. A process for non-permanent reshaping of humankeratinous fibres, comprising the steps of:(a) contacting said fibres,said fibres being maintained under mechanical tension and having hadapplied thereto a composition containing at least one oil, with a gascontaining water vapour, said gas having a temperature of at least 75°C., for a time not exceeding 2 minutes to non-permanently reshape saidfibres; (b) cooling said fibres after said contacting step; and (c)removing the mechanical tension which was applied to said fibres.
 2. Aprocess according to claim 1, wherein said gas has a temperature aboveor equal to 85° C.
 3. A process according to claim 2, wherein saidtemperature ranges from 85° C. to 150° C.
 4. A process according toclaim 1, wherein said gas has a temperature ranging from 75° C. to lessthan 120° C.
 5. A process according to claim 1, wherein said gas isbrought into contact with the fibre to be reshaped for a time rangingfrom 0.01 second to 2 minutes.
 6. A process according to claim 5,wherein said time ranges from 0.01 second to 30 seconds.
 7. A processaccording to claim 6, wherein said time ranges from 1 second to 20seconds.
 8. A process according to claim 7, wherein said time rangesfrom 1 second to 10 seconds.
 9. A process according to claim 1, whereinthe application of the gas is repeated several times on the fibres. 10.A process according to claim 1, wherein said gas contains only watervapour.
 11. A process according to claim 1, wherein said gas containswater vapour and at least one other compound in gas or vapour form. 12.A process according to claim 11, wherein said gas contains water vapourand air.
 13. A process according to claim 1, wherein the oil is chosenfrom oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
 14. Aprocess according to claim 13, wherein the oil is selected from liquidparaffin and isoparaffinic oils.
 15. A process according to claim 1,wherein the keratinous fibres are hair.
 16. A process for non-permanentreshaping of keratinous fibres, comprising the step of contacting saidfibres, said fibres being maintained under mechanical tension and havinghad applied thereto a composition containing at least one oil, with agas containing water vapour, said gas having a temperature of at least75° C., for a time not exceeding 2 minutes to non-permanently reshapesaid fibres.
 17. A process according to claim 16, wherein the keratinousfibres are human keratinous fibres.
 18. A process for non-permanentreshaping of keratinous fibres, comprising the steps of:(a) contactingsaid fibres, said fibres being maintained under mechanical tension, witha composition containing at least one oil and with a gas containingwater vapour, said gas having a temperature of at least 75° C., for atime not exceeding 2 minutes to non-permanently reshape said fibres; (b)cooling said fibres after said contacting step; and (c) removing themechanical tension which was applied to said fibres.
 19. A processaccording to claim 18, wherein the keratinous fibres are humankeratinous fibres.
 20. A process for non-permanent reshaping ofkeratinous fibres, comprising the steps of:(a) contacting said fibres,said fibres being maintained under mechanical tension and having hadapplied thereto a composition containing at least one oil, with a gascontaining water vapour, said gas having a temperature of at least 75°C., for a time sufficient to non-permanently reshape said fibres intolong-lasting curls; (b) cooling said fibres after said contacting step;and (c) removing the mechanical tension which was applied to saidfibres.
 21. A process according to claim 20, wherein the keratinousfibres are human keratinous fibres.
 22. A process according to claim 20,wherein the temperature of said gas ranges from 75° C. to 120° C.
 23. Aprocess for non-permanent reshaping of keratinous fibres, comprising thesteps of:(a) contacting said fibres, said fibres being maintained undermechanical tension and having had applied thereto a compositioncontaining at least one oil, with a gas containing water vapour for atime not exceeding 2 minutes, said gas having a temperature sufficientto non-permanently reshape said fibres into long-lasting curls; (b)cooling said fibres after said contacting step; and (c) removing themechanical tension which was applied to said fibres.
 24. A processaccording to claim 23, wherein the keratinous fibres are humankeratinous fibres.
 25. A process for non-permanent reshaping ofkeratinous fibres, comprising the steps of:(a) contacting said fibres,said fibres being maintained under mechanical tension and having hadapplied thereto a composition containing at least one oil, with a gascontaining water vapour, said gas having a temperature and said contacttime being sufficient to non-permanently reshape said fibres intolong-lasting curls; (b) cooling said fibres after said contacting step;and (c) removing the mechanical tension which was applied to saidfibres.
 26. A process according to claim 25, wherein the keratinousfibres are human keratinous fibres.